The Bistro Reviving French Cuisine in Williamsburg, Le Crocodile
Spotlighting the brainchild of Chef Aidan O'Neal, who has brought a fresh yet timeless take on French cuisine to the heart of Brooklyn
Williamsburg has always been a hotbed of culinary innovation, but something was missing. While the neighborhood boasted an eclectic array of dining options, it lacked a classic French bistro — a cornerstone that other iconic New York neighborhoods had long established. Enter Le Crocodile, the brainchild of Chef Aidan O'Neal, who has brought a fresh yet timeless take on French cuisine to the heart of Brooklyn.
This week, we dig into what has everyone talking about it…
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From Montreal to New York: A Culinary Journey
Chef Aidan didn’t grow up with a taste for French food. In fact, his culinary journey began almost by accident. "I didn’t do well in high school, dropped out of college, and found myself in kitchens," Aidan recalls. Moving to Montreal was a pivotal moment, not just for the city’s vibrant food scene but also because it provided Aidan with the structure and discipline he craved. "French food helped me mature as an adult," he says, crediting the rigorous environment of French kitchens with shaping his approach to both cooking and life
Aidan’s formative years were spent in some of Montreal’s most revered kitchens, including Au Pied de Cochon and Toqué. These experiences were more than just jobs— they were revelations. "I didn’t know that restaurants could be a noble profession until I worked in those kitchens," Aidan says. He learned not just the technical skills but also the importance of using every part of the ingredient. "Whether it’s foie gras or potato skins, every product had a purpose," he explains.
The Leap to Le Crocodile
Opening his own restaurant was a leap of faith, one that almost didn’t happen. After moving to New York and working in chaotic yet inspiring kitchens like M. Wells in Queens, Aidan and his business partner Jake Lieber found themselves at a crossroads. They were given the opportunity to take over a beleaguered corner restaurant in Greenpoint — a spot where few restaurants had succeeded in two decades. "We were very close to closing after six months," Aidan admits. But then came a series of rave reviews that changed everything. "Eater gave us five stars, and that was the turning point," he says. From there, the accolades kept coming, with New York Magazine, GQ, and The New York Times all praising their work.
So why take on the challenge of opening a French bistro in Williamsburg? For Aidan, the decision was simple. "Williamsburg lacked its anchor bistro," he says, pointing out how other neighborhoods had their iconic French spots like Balthazar or Pastis. Le Crocodile was designed to fill that gap, offering everything from steak frites to onion soup in a setting that feels both contemporary and timeless.
Cooking Philosophy: Serious Food, Fun Atmosphere
Aidan’s approach to cooking is rooted in the traditions of French cuisine but is far from traditional in its execution. "Don’t take yourself too seriously, but take the food seriously," he says. This philosophy is reflected in every aspect of Le Crocodile, from the menu to the kitchen environment. In contrast to the pressure-cooker atmosphere of many professional kitchens, Aidan fosters a sense of enjoyment and teamwork. "Cooking should be fun," he says.
One of the unique touches at Le Crocodile is the clock in the kitchen. "In Thomas Keller’s kitchens, the clock says ‘sense of urgency,’" Aidan notes. "In our kitchen, it says ‘cooking is fun.’" This ethos isn’t just a slogan; it’s a way of life for Aidan and his team. "Every day, you know you’ve accomplished something real," he says. "You’re making people happy, and that’s tangible."
The Menu: Classics with a Twist
The menu at Le Crocodile is a homage to the classics of French cuisine, but with subtle updates that cater to both New Yorkers and French expats alike. "We’re not trying to reinvent anything," Aidan says. "We’re just keeping it fresh." The dishes range from traditional favorites like steak frites and roast chicken to more cerebral offerings like a frisée salad with smoked eel, a nod to both classic and contemporary tastes.
Roast Chicken: Simply seasoned and roasted, basted with its own fat, and served with a chicken jus flavored with herbs, capers, garlic, chili, and lemon. Paired with a generous plate of fries, it’s comfort food at its finest.
Confit Duck Leg: Glazed with honey, coriander, and cumin, this dish is served with a carrot salad and glazed carrots with cornichon and tarragon—an exquisite balance of flavors that elevates the traditional confit.
Mushroom Paté: Roasted mushrooms prepared with cream, caramelized onions, and cognac, served with black truffle and thinly sliced button mushrooms. A luxurious vegetarian option that doesn’t skimp on flavor.
Frisée Salad with Smoked Eel: In a departure from the usual bacon, this salad is topped with smoked eel, glazed with maple and sherry vinegar, offering a pescatarian twist on a bistro classic.
Things We Ate This Week:
Utsav — They are serving up some of the best Indian food we could find in Midtown for $25.
Defonte’s — The Brooklyn mainstay has been serving up legendary sandwiches for more than a century, but it’s been a while since we’ve been. Legit one of the last great delis in NYC.
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